THE BOOK OF
تنغير
History, places, people, culture and food of Tinghir, told by two Moroccans.
CHAPTER I
A long green palm grove beneath ochre cliffs at the entrance to the Todra gorges: Tinghir is the land of the Ait Atta, who fought one of the last battles against the French conquest, at Jbel Saghro in 1933.
CHAPTER II
According to the Moroccan historian Ahmed Toufiq, Tinghir and Tangier (ancient Tingi) share the same Amazigh etymology: "tin", "she who has", and "ig", "the high place". The name of Tinmel, the first Almohad capital, is built the same way. Others explain it as "tin ighir", the place of the ridge.
The town sits at over 1,300 metres, between the High Atlas and the Anti-Atlas.
The Todgha palm grove stretches along both banks of the river as it leaves the gorges. It is watered by a network of channels called tirgwin (singular targa), which take almost all the water: the Todgha only reaches the Ferkla in big floods.
The town is the trading crossroads for the valley's villages and the neighbouring Ait Atta tribes, and a Jewish community lived here until the 1960s.
Long part of Ouarzazate province, Tinghir became the capital of its own province in 2009. In the 2004 census the town had 42,044 inhabitants and the whole oasis 80,212.
Its economy rests on trade, emigrants' money, oasis farming and tourism to the Todra gorges.
CHAPTER III
1900–1950
Kasbahs and ksour line the palm grove along the Todra river.
CHAPTER IV
1
A walk among gardens, irrigation channels and ruined ksour, starting from the town viewpoint.
2
15 km away, a canyon with 300 m walls narrowing to about ten metres.
3
A black volcanic massif for multi-day treks with muleteers, in winter and spring.
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER VI
At summer weddings, dances and sung poems go on all night in the ksour.
Rock climbing in the Todra Gorge has attracted international climbers since the 1970s — it's considered one of the world's great limestone sport climbing areas. The palmery of Tinghir, maintained by the Ait Morghad tribe for generations, is one of Morocco's most spectacular agricultural landscapes.
CHAPTER VII
The palm grove is shared by Amazigh tribes, including the powerful Ait Atta, and Jewish families lived here until the 1960s. Many residents emigrated to France to work in the northern mines in the 1960s-70s.
Tamazight is the valley's language; darija is used for trade, and French comes back with the emigrants in summer.
CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER IX
Allow 1–3 days to see Tinghir without rushing. That is the length we use in our itineraries.
The best months for Tinghir are March, April, October and November.
Per person per day, accommodation included: about $35 on a budget, $80 mid-range and $200 for a luxury stay.
CTM buses from Ouarzazate (2h), Er-Rachidia (2h). Grand taxis from Boumalne Dades. Most visitors drive.
The must-sees of Tinghir: Todra Gorge, Tinghir palmery, Kasbah viewpoint and Rock climbing.
To taste in Tinghir: Khobz, Moroccan mint tea, Oranges with cinnamon and Msemen.
The best areas to stay: Tinghir center and Todra Gorge entrance.
Yes, Tinghir welcomes many travellers every year. The precautions are those of any tourist destination: watch your belongings in crowds, politely turn down unofficial guides, agree on a taxi fare before getting in.
Yes, Tinghir is easy to visit with children.
To go further and check what we write.
