THE BOOK OF
العرائش
History, places, people, culture and food of Larache, told by two Moroccans.
CHAPTER I
Above the mouth of the Loukkos, the ruins of Lixus recall one of the oldest Phoenician trading posts in Africa and the myth of the Garden of the Hesperides. Below, Larache keeps its medina, its Spanish forts and the grave of the writer Jean Genet.
CHAPTER II
On the north bank of the Loukkos, facing today's town, stands Lixus. The Phoenicians developed it in the 8th-7th centuries BC over an older Bronze Age settlement, even before Carthage was founded. It later became a Mauretanian then Roman city.
Greek legend placed the Garden of the Hesperides here, where Hercules picked the golden apples. In March 2023 Moroccan archaeologists discovered a Mauretanian tomb more than 2,000 years old there.
The town only appears in Arabic sources in the 13th century. It was founded by the Banu Arus, an Idrisid tribe, who named it al-Araish, "the trellises", for the region's abundant vines: al-Araish Bani Arus, "the trellises of the Banu Arus".
In the late 12th century the Almohad caliph Ya'qub al-Mansur built a fortress here. In 1270 the Castilians carried out a successful raid on the town.
In 1471, after taking Asilah and Tangier, the Portuguese drove out the inhabitants and the town stayed empty. Nearby, in 1489, they built the fortress of Graciosa. Larache's kasbah, built around 1491, later became a corsair stronghold.
The Saadian sultan Mohammed ash-Sheikh repopulated the town and built a fort at the harbour entrance to control access to the river. For a long time the Portuguese, Spanish and French failed to take it.
In 1610 the town passed to Spain, which used it mainly as a trading stop without really governing it. Moulay Ismail retook it in 1689.
European attacks continued: in 1765 a French expedition failed before Larache; in 1829 the Austrian fleet bombarded the town to punish privateering.
In 1911 Spain occupied Larache, which it kept for 45 years, until 1956. It built a new town around Liberation Square, with its white-and-blue arcades, and a balcony over the Atlantic.
The French writer Jean Genet, who loved the town, asked to be buried here: since 1986 he has lain in the old Spanish cemetery, facing the ocean.
CHAPTER III
700 BC
The Phoenicians found Lixus, linked by legend to the Garden of the Hesperides.
1610–1689
Spanish occupation of Larache.
1911–1956
Larache is part of the Spanish protectorate.
CHAPTER IV
1
Salting tanks, baths, a theatre-amphitheatre and an acropolis overlooking the bends of the Loukkos.
2
The cliff-top promenade, looking over the port, the estuary and the Stork fort.
3
Facing the ocean, it is where Jean Genet lies; he chose to be buried in Larache.
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER VI
The port on the Loukkos lives to the rhythm of its boats; the hinterland is covered in rice fields and strawberry farms.
The city maintains strong Andalusian musical traditions — malhun poetry and classical Andalusian music are performed in local cultural associations. The fishing community's rhythms set the pace of daily life; the port market at dawn is a local ritual. The Spanish-era central square (Plaza de la Liberación) remains the social heart where generations gather in the evenings.
CHAPTER VII
A town of fishermen and Loukkos farmers, Larache keeps the imprint of Spain, which occupied it twice. Residents are known as easy-going, attached to their ocean balcony and the cafés on the square.
Larache darija is that of the northwest, mixed with Spanish; older people still speak the language of the protectorate era.
CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER IX
Allow 1–2 days to see Larache without rushing. That is the length we use in our itineraries.
The best months for Larache are April, May, September and October.
Per person per day, accommodation included: about $30 on a budget, $70 mid-range and $150 for a luxury stay.
CTM and Supratours buses connect Larache to Tangier (1.5h), Rabat (3h) and Casablanca (4h). Grand taxis run to Ksar el-Kébir (30 min) where the nearest train station is. No airport — closest is Tangier Ibn Battouta (90km).
The must-sees of Larache: Lixus Ruins, Kasbah de la Cigogne, Medina of Larache and Jean Genet's Tomb.
To taste in Larache: Khobz, Moroccan mint tea, Oranges with cinnamon and Msemen.
The best areas to stay: Medina, Ville Nouvelle and Port Quarter.
Yes, Larache welcomes many travellers every year. The precautions are those of any tourist destination: watch your belongings in crowds, politely turn down unofficial guides, agree on a taxi fare before getting in.
Yes, Larache is easy to visit with children.
To go further and check what we write.
