THE BOOK OF
الناظور
History, places, people, culture and food of Nador, told by two Moroccans.
CHAPTER I
On the Marchica lagoon, facing Melilla, Nador is a young town of the eastern Rif, shaped by Mohamed Amezian's fight against Spain and by the Battle of Annual in 1921.
CHAPTER II
Since at least the 11th century the Nador region has been called Bilad al-Qulu', the "land of castles". The name of the region's Riffians, the Iqer'iyen, the "people of the castles", comes from it.
The name Nador itself is said to come from a local section, the Has Nador, of the Mazouza tribe, part of the Guelaya. In Arabic, "nador" also means a lookout post.
The town was founded in the 19th century by local Amazigh tribes, on the shore of the Marchica lagoon, a few kilometres from Melilla, a Spanish city since 1497. From 1912 to independence in 1956, Nador was part of the Spanish protectorate in northern Morocco.
It was then only a small place; it grew mainly after independence.
After 1956 Nador became the Rif's main port, at Beni Ensar, and one of the hubs of the Oriental region. Many residents emigrated to the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany from the 1960s, and diaspora money made the town grow very fast.
The Marchica lagoon, the largest on Morocco's Mediterranean coast, has been the subject of a large development programme since the 2010s, with a promenade, marinas and protected areas for birds.
CHAPTER III
1909
The modern town grows around a Spanish military post on the Marchica lagoon.
CHAPTER IV
1
Twenty-five kilometres of lagoon cut off from the sea by a sand bar: promenade, flamingos and water sports.
2
Pine forest with views over Melilla, the lagoon and the sea.
3
A wild peninsula of cliffs and coves north of Melilla.
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER VI
Tarifit, Rif music and big summer celebrations when emigrant families return from Europe.
Nador is a Berber (Riffian) city with strong Tarifit language and Amazigh cultural identity. The proximity to Melilla creates a unique cross-border culture of shopping and commerce. The Marchica Lagoon has been subject to a major government resort development project.
CHAPTER VII
Nador is home to Riffians, notably of the Iqar'iyen tribe. It's one of the Moroccan towns with the most emigrants, especially in the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany; diaspora money made the town grow very fast.
Tarifit is the everyday language; with Melilla next door, many also speak Spanish.
CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER IX
Allow 1–3 days to see Nador without rushing. That is the length we use in our itineraries.
The best months for Nador are June, July, August and September.
Per person per day, accommodation included: about $30 on a budget, $70 mid-range and $160 for a luxury stay.
Mohammed Ben Abdelkrim Airport (NDR) with flights to Casablanca and some European cities. Ferry from Almeria and Malaga (Spain). CTM buses from Fes (5h), Al Hoceïma (2h).
The must-sees of Nador: Marchica Lagoon, Melilla day trip and Kariat Arkmane beach.
To taste in Nador: Khobz, Moroccan mint tea, Oranges with cinnamon and Msemen.
The best areas to stay: City center and Marchica.
Yes, Nador welcomes many travellers every year. The precautions are those of any tourist destination: watch your belongings in crowds, politely turn down unofficial guides, agree on a taxi fare before getting in.
Yes, Nador is easy to visit with children.
To go further and check what we write.
