Taroudant and its ramparts in the 16th century

THE BOOK OF

Taroudant — All about Taroudant

تارودانت

History, places, people, culture and food of Taroudant, told by two Moroccans.

10 chapters3 min readBy Yassine and Issam
Things to do in Taroudant
CONTENTS · I
  1. I. At a glance
  2. II. History
  3. III. Key dates
  4. IV. Landmarks
  5. V. People
  6. VI. Culture and traditions
  7. VII. The people
  8. VIII. At the table
  9. IX. Did you know?
  10. X. Frequently asked questions

CHAPTER I

At a glance

Nicknamed “little Marrakech” for its ochre walls, Taroudant was the first capital of the Saadians in the 16th century. In the heart of the Souss plain, between the High and Anti-Atlas, it is a quiet town with genuine souks.

Arabic name
تارودانت
Other names
Tarudant
Coordinates
30.4702, -8.8763
Best months
Oct, Nov, Mar, Apr

CHAPTER II

History

An ancient capital of the Souss

Taroudant's founding date is debated. Some researchers place it before Islam, perhaps when Punic trade reached the Souss coast; others identify it with Vala, a town of ancient Mauretania. Most historians agree it was founded by the emirs of the Hachtouka and Jazoula tribes.

Lying at the centre of the Souss plain, at the crossroads of routes linking the north of the Atlas to the Sahara, it has always been a political and trading hub for the Souss tribes.

From the Bajjali kingdom to rebel princes

In the 11th century Taroudant was the capital of a small Shiite kingdom, that of the Bajjali, nominally subject to the Fatimid caliphs. The Almoravids annexed it in 1056. Almost independent under the Almohads, it became the capital of the Ben Yedder princes, who ruled the Souss from 1252 to 1334.

The Marinids destroyed the town in 1306, but it was soon reborn. A Jewish community, probably established in the 11th century, made up as much as a tenth of the population and lived mainly from the caravan trade; the Kabbalist Moses ben Maimon Albas came from here.

Cradle of the Saadians (16th century)

In the mid-15th century the Banu Zaydan family, the future Saadians, settled near Taroudant at Tidsi, which served as the base of their first leader, Mohammed al-Qa'im, until 1513. Taroudant reached its peak in the 16th century under Mohammed ash-Sheikh, who used it as a base for attacks on the Portuguese at Agadir.

The town became a major caravan centre, known for its sugar, cotton and rice. The present line of its mud ramparts, about seven kilometres long, dates from this Saadian period.

Tazerwalt, Moulay Ismail and the sack of 1687

In the 17th century the local chief Sidi Yahya helped the Saadian sultan Moulay Zaydan from Taroudant against the rebel Abu Mahalli, who had taken Marrakech. As the Saadians declined, the town came under the principality of Tazerwalt, whose chief had imprisoned Moulay Ali Cherif, ancestor of the Alaouites, at Iligh.

In 1687 the town backed the pretender Ahmed ben Mehrez, nephew of Moulay Ismail. In reprisal the sultan had much of the population massacred. The closing of Agadir's port in 1760 then brought a long decline, and the town withdrew behind its walls.

Al-Hiba and the protectorate (1912-1917)

In the late 19th century Moulay Hassan I strengthened his authority over the town; in 1903 the caid Tayeb el-Goundafi restored order there. In 1912 Ahmed al-Hiba, son of the Saharan holy man Ma al-Aynayn, made Taroudant the centre of his resistance to the French protectorate, until 1913.

France only truly controlled the town in 1917. Haida ou Mouis of the Oulad Berhil was appointed its pasha until he was killed fighting the Anti-Atlas tribes in 1917; his son succeeded him.

CHAPTER III

Key dates

  1. 1520–1530

    Taroudant is the Saadians' first capital, before Marrakech.

  2. 1500–1600

    Its ochre ramparts, still complete today, are built.

CHAPTER IV

Landmarks

1

Around the walls

By bike or horse cart late in the day, when the earth walls turn red.

2

The souks

Arab souk and Berber souk, with no touts: spices, copper, babouches and silver jewellery.

3

The tanneries

Outside the walls, small traditional tanneries still at work.

CHAPTER V

People

  • Mohammed ech-Cheikh1490–1557Saadian sultan who made Taroudant his base before conquering Morocco.

CHAPTER VI

Culture and traditions

The farming Souss

Orange trees, argan and greenhouses: the plain around the town feeds much of Morocco and Europe.

The city has two distinct souks: the Arab souk (spices, textiles, hardware) and the Berber souk (silver jewelry, leather, traditional crafts). The surrounding Souss Valley produces Morocco's finest argan oil, saffron, and almonds. Traditional Souss Berber women wear distinctive colorful headscarves and silver jewelry.

CHAPTER VII

The people

The Roudanis

The people of Taroudant, the Roudanis, live to the rhythm of the Souss farming plain: citrus, olives, argan. The town keeps a quiet neighbourhood life, by bike and carriage, far from mass tourism.

Souss Tashelhit

Tashelhit is the language of the street and souk; darija is mostly used with outsiders.

CHAPTER VIII

At the table

Soussi tagineLamb or goat with vegetables, lifted with argan oil and slow-cooked over embers.

CHAPTER IX

Did you know?

  • The Saadians rose to power near Taroudant, at Tidsi, before conquering Marrakech.
  • Its mud ramparts, about 7 km long, are among the best preserved in Morocco.
  • Chilean painter Claudio Bravo spent his last years here and is buried here.

Frequently asked questions about Taroudant

How many days do you need in Taroudant?

Allow 1–2 days to see Taroudant without rushing. That is the length we use in our itineraries.

When is the best time to visit Taroudant?

The best months for Taroudant are October, November, March and April.

How much does a day in Taroudant cost?

Per person per day, accommodation included: about $30 on a budget, $70 mid-range and $180 for a luxury stay.

How do you get to Taroudant?

CTM buses and grand taxis from Agadir (1.5h). No train. Driving from Marrakech over the Tizi n'Test pass (4h) is one of Morocco's great mountain drives.

What is there to see in Taroudant?

The must-sees of Taroudant: Ramparts, Arab and Berber souks, Place Assarag and Tioute Oasis.

What should you eat in Taroudant?

To taste in Taroudant: Amlou, Khobz, Moroccan mint tea and Oranges with cinnamon.

Where should you stay in Taroudant?

The best areas to stay: Medina.

Is Taroudant safe?

Yes, Taroudant welcomes many travellers every year. The precautions are those of any tourist destination: watch your belongings in crowds, politely turn down unofficial guides, agree on a taxi fare before getting in.

Is Taroudant good for families?

Yes, Taroudant is easy to visit with children.

Sources

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THE END

Now go and see Taroudant.

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