THE BOOK OF
زاكورة
History, places, people, culture and food of Zagora, told by two Moroccans.
CHAPTER I
At the end of the Draa Valley, Zagora is famous for its sign “Timbuktu 52 days” by camel. The Saadian dynasty came from this valley, and here at Tamegroute a brotherhood kept one of the finest libraries in the Sahara.
CHAPTER II
The Draa valley has been inhabited since the Lower Palaeolithic: Oldowan and Acheulean tools have been found near Tamegroute. Throughout the valley, Neolithic rock engravings show hunting scenes and domestic cattle; the oldest may date from the 3rd millennium BC. They can be seen at Foum Chena and Tazarine, and a vast necropolis lies at Foum Larjam, near M'hamid el-Ghizlane.
The Draa, Morocco's longest river, was known to ancient geographers, including Ptolemy.
Under the Wattasids, the Songhai emperor Askia Ishaq I sent Tuareg raids into the Draa, in response to Morocco's demand that he cede the Taghaza salt mines.
In the early 14th century sharifs from Arabia, the future Saadians, settled at Tagmadart in the valley. In the 16th century they set out to conquer the Souss and then northern Morocco, before launching in 1591 the expedition that took Timbuktu along the Draa caravan road. The famous "Timbuktu 52 days" sign at the edge of Zagora recalls this route.
Twenty kilometres from Zagora, on the Timbuktu road, Abu Hafs Umar al-Ansari founded the Naciria zawiya of Tamegroute in 1575, linked to the Shadhili Sufi brotherhood. In the 17th century Sidi Mohammed ben Nasir gave it great influence and enriched its library with more than 4,000 works brought back from his travels in Africa and the East.
Scholars and students came from all over Morocco and Africa. The library still holds manuscripts on theology, history and medicine, the oldest dated to the 13th century. Tamegroute is also famous for its green-glazed pottery, fired in kilns heated with palm fronds.
In the 17th century the Alaouites took the valley. Moulay Ismail appointed several of his sons as khalifas of the Draa; one settled at Aghlan, among the Beni Zoli. The sultan also relied on the Naciria zawiya to spread learning towards Africa.
After Moulay Ismail's death in 1727 the region went through periods of instability. In the 20th century Zagora became the valley's main town, gateway to the desert towards M'hamid and Erg Chegaga.
CHAPTER III
1500–1550
The Saadian dynasty rises in the Draa valley.
1591
Ahmad al-Mansur's army crosses the Draa toward Timbuktu, remembered by the famous “Timbuktu 52 days” sign.
CHAPTER IV
1
Dozens of kilometres of palm trees, earthen ksour and gardens between Agdz and Zagora.
2
The zawiya's manuscripts, then the workshops of the green pottery, glazed with copper and fired with wood.
3
At the end of the paved road, M'Hamid opens the track to the wild great dunes of Chigaga.
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER VI
Amazigh, Arab and Haratin families share the ksour and the water of the irrigation channels, shared out by ancient rules.
The Draa Valley dates and saffron are among Morocco's finest agricultural products. Camel herding remains a practical tradition. The annual Tinfou dunes festival celebrates nomadic culture. Traditional Sahrawi blue robes are worn by local men.
CHAPTER VII
The valley brings together Amazighs, Arabs and Haratin, descendants of the oases' Black farmers. Each ksar has its mosque, granary and irrigation channels shared according to centuries-old rules.
You hear Draa darija, Tamazight and, towards Mhamid, the nomads' Hassaniya. Guides often speak several European languages.
CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER IX
Allow 1–3 days to see Zagora without rushing. That is the length we use in our itineraries.
The best months for Zagora are October, November, March and April.
Per person per day, accommodation included: about $35 on a budget, $80 mid-range and $200 for a luxury stay.
CTM buses from Ouarzazate (4h), Marrakech (7h). Grand taxis link local villages.
The must-sees of Zagora: Draa Valley palmeries, Tinfou dunes, Amezrou kasbah and Montagne des Juifs.
To taste in Zagora: Mechoui, Camel tagine, Khobz and Moroccan mint tea.
The best areas to stay: Zagora center and Amezrou.
Yes, Zagora welcomes many travellers every year. The precautions are those of any tourist destination: watch your belongings in crowds, politely turn down unofficial guides, agree on a taxi fare before getting in.
Yes, Zagora is easy to visit with children.
To go further and check what we write.
